If you’ve ever wondered why you should invest in a vitamin C serum, take it from Dr. Ashley Magovern, a board-certified dermatologist in Manhattan Beach, Calif. “The benefits of the topical application of vitamin C on the skin are well-studied and quite strong. In my opinion, everyone should be applying vitamin C to the skin as part of a daily regimen,” she says. “A good topical regimen is highly underrated; it can make a remarkable difference in the skin over time. My patients are often astounded by the difference they see in their skin with just adding a vitamin C serum.”
The Benefits of a Vitamin C Serum
Vitamin C is essential for many cellular and skin functions, including collagen synthesis, maintaining skin strength and integrity, wound healing and free radical and UV protection, according to Dr. Magovern. “Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that is naturally and normally found in the skin in high concentrations,” she explains. “As an antioxidant, it neutralizes free radicals in the skin. Free radicals, which are formed from things like the sun, pollution, stress and smoking, damage the DNA of the cell, which can lead to premature aging and skin cancer. Vitamin C also boosts collagen production and reverses cell damage, which helps keep the skin firmer and even helps fade and prevent brown spots and pigmentation.”
How to Choose the Best Vitamin C Serum
As essential as vitamin C is to your skin care regimen, not all topical vitamin C serums are created equal. According to Dr. Magovern, there are four main factors you need to consider when looking for a vitamin C serum for your face:
Form of Vitamin C. Vitamin C comes in different forms—L-ascorbic acid, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate, among others—but not all of them are equal in terms of stability and absorption rate. “As with all active ingredients in skin care and critical with vitamin C, it is essential that it is well formulated and has good bioavailability and penetration,” explains Dr. Magovern. “In other words, it is able to get to where it needs to go and do what it’s supposed to do.” Professional skin care brands often back up their vitamin C products’ claims with clinical testing to support their effectiveness.
Concentration. Concentration is basically the strength of the acid, explains Dr. Magovern. “A concentration of at least 10% L-ascorbic acid is recommended; however, you will find some products on the market that offer 15 or 20%. The concentration is important, but the best vitamin C serums combine other antioxidants and boosters like vitamin E and ferulic acid, which probably adds more value than just increasing the concentration alone.”
Formulation. While vitamin C alone has proven benefits, studies show that combining it with equally potent ingredients can heighten its efficacy. Dr. Magovern explains: “There is a great deal of evidence showing that combining vitamin C with vitamin E and ferulic acid makes for a much more potent antioxidant with added benefits. Vitamin E itself acts as an antioxidant and also enhances the function of vitamin C. It also helps to maintain the skin barrier. Ferulic acid enhances both vitamin C and vitamin E. Glutathione is another antioxidant that works synergistically with vitamin C and is one to keep your eye on. I think we will be hearing more and more about this one.”
Price. “A good formulation can be costly to make to ensure proper stability and bioavailability, two of the essential factors when creating a vitamin C product,” says Dr. Magovern. However, she also notes that the price of a product isn’t always an indication of quality. “Expensive doesn’t always mean better. Some of the most expensive products on the market may actually have an inferior formulation or may not have as much research to support the product. In the end, I would stick with good advice from dermatologists and other skin care experts when choosing products.”
How to Use a Vitamin C Serum for Best Results
There are different theories and ideas out there about how and when to use a vitamin C antioxidant serum. Some experts believe that vitamin C skin care products should be applied at night in order to help skin repair itself while other sleep-restorative functions are taking place. Some believe that it should be applied during the day in order to help fight off free radical damage as it accumulates through the day. For Dr. Magovern, it doesn’t matter much which time of day you apply it; what matters more is that you remember to use it.
As for how often? Dr. Magovern mentions that you may not need to use it every day. “The receptors for vitamin C get saturated and it may not need to be applied every day,” she says. “You may not get added benefit from daily application. I would recommend application at least every 48 to 72 hours.”
Something else of importance to note is how you store your bottles to ensure potency. “Keeping vitamin C bottles in a cool, dark place is best. You’ll notice that formulas containing L-ascorbic acid will (and should) come in a brown or amber bottle, which is important to maintain stability,” she explains. Your serum “should probably be replaced at least every six months. However, if you are using it properly and being compliant with your skin care regimen, your bottle shouldn’t last long.”
Precautions to Note
If you have sensitive skin and typically break out when trying a new product, you’d be happy to know that vitamin C is relatively safe for even the most sensitive skin, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t patch-test your vitamin C just as you would any new product. “I am not aware of any harmful side effects to topical vitamin C, other than the occasional acne breakout or irritation that may come from a formulation that may not agree with your skin,” says Dr. Magovern. “If this happens, you could try another brand or formulation.”
Ready to boost your antioxidant intake? Here are the top vitamin C serums to try.